Fjærkjerringa, July 27 2023

A nice revisit to Kjerringøy, Bodø



Date Peak Height PF Location MAP
27.07.23 Fjærkjerringa 594m 205m Bodø, Norway MAP
27.07.23 Fjærkjerringa east top 582m 54m Bodø, Norway MAP

Our route

Thursday: Today, we were going to the beautiful Kjerringøy island to a) hike and b) visit Kjerringøy Handelssted. As I didn’t really know about any dog-friendly mountains (other than Eidetinden – which I had been to before) on this rugged island and so I posted a question to a Kjerringøy FB group.

Fjærkjerringa (foreground, left) seen from Rypdalstinden on Landegode

I got a number of suggestions, some were not pf100 tops and some I had my doubt on. That left us with Fjærkjerringa. The person who answered had been up there with a dog.

I forgot to ask where the path begins, so when we took the ferry to Kjerringøy this morning, we had no idea where to start.

Waiting for the ferry to Misten

But before going hiking, we wanted to drive up north and get Store Strandåtind in view. This is a mountain I climbed back in 2009 and is still the most memorable pure climbing trip I’ve been on.


Next, we drove around in the area near Fjærkjerringa and asked several persons about the route. The best suggestion we got was to start by the cattleguard just north of Salvobergan. I forgot what the call this place. We were also told to “keep right” – whatever that meant.

We found the cattleguard and wondered if we had understood the “keep right” correctly…

Heading out from the cattleguard

We approached this by looking for tracks. We found a vague path but quickly lost sight of it on the slabs. But then we saw a track going up the forest along a ridge that looked promising.

Found the path! My car is seen to the left

The path was easy to follow, but I wasn’t quite at ease with respect to Karma. I thought the mountain looked steep higher up.

So far, so good!

But I’d worry about that when we got there. Now, we just had to enjoy the scenery!

What a background…

One thing was for certain – we would take a swim after the hike!

The water is already calling…

Above the forest, I STILL thought the mountain looked really steep. How on earth would we get Karma up there? We could only hope that there was a ledge that we didn’t see.

Hmm… Looking steep…

Eventually we got to the “crux”, and it was clearly possible to get the dog up there, but how? Should I let the dog figure out the moves by herself or should I guide her? If she fell off the cliff, bones would be broken for sure. I decided to guide her, which was not easy due to the minimal room this “ledge” had to offer.

The crux. Fairly easy for humans…

In the end I was able to get her up, but I didn’t want to go through this again. I would go to lengths in order to find a different route upon our descent.

But after this hurdle, it was easy street to the summit!

On top of Fjærkjerringa

The view from Fjærkjerringa is just awesome, and especially the view to the north…

Holy cow…

Landegode was coming “closer and closer”, meaning that now it was only 1 day until we would go hiking there.

Landegode island

I would not mind spending an entire year here. Maybe I should start thinking about that while I’m still “young”…

Heaps of to-do’s…

I wanted to visit the east top – and look for an alternative route down at the same time. There was a distinct path to the east top, so I had a hope that maybe there was a route down from the pass.

Going to the east top

I didn’t see a route down from the pass, but it didn’t seem hopeless to get down that way. After a few minutes I was on the east top and could look back on the main top.

Fjærkjerringa main top seen from the east top

Back in the pass I discovered a vague path that I hadn’t seen while going up. I went back up to the main top and said to Anne that I wanted to descend that way.

What the heck???? Just kidding. Karma was just drinking water behind the backpack…

And so we did. We quickly lost the path, but it didn’t matter. We were just going to maintain this elevation until we were under the crux and then return along the ascent route.

Descending from the pass. Easy terrain!

All of a sudden, we came across parts of an airplane. A quick search on the internet revealed that there two F-5 Freedom Fighters had collided with this mountain, in 1972, just below the summit. A huge tragedy!

Parts from the 1972 accident

It was a delight to not have to deal with the crux again. While this is simple scrambling for humans, I would not recommend that route for dogs. Traverse over to the pass instead. Much easier terrain!


Then we headed down the way we came up and was back at the car 3 hours after leaving it.

I don’t know what the mountain is called Fjærkjerringa (“Feather woman”), but maybe this is her?

It was time to hit the water. We just crossed the road and jumped into the sea. We could wish there was a sandy beach there, but a rocky shore with seaweed would do nicely right now. We took a swim all nude and hoped we would shock people in the RVs that had parked offroad and thus illegal

Anne posing on our way down

Then it was time for the cultural part of the day, and we drove to Kjerringøy Handelssted.

The cultural part of the day


But first – lunch! We were hungry…

Manners, Karma. Manners!

I must admit I don’t have a huge interest in historic buildings and places, but Anne wanted to have a tour. I was happy with taking pictures, without really knowing what I was photographing. I did know that the Knut Hamsun wrote “Pan” and “Benoni og Rosa” based on this place and Kjerringøy. Or at least I remembered – when Anne mentioned it…

At Kjerringøy Handelssted

But, while the place was impressive – given the age – it was just “a bunch of good-looking old buildings” to me. I’m not afraid to unveil my ignorance, but I do have a strong interest in more recent history, like WW2.

At Kjerringøy Handelssted

We were a bit too late to catch the guided tour and so we just strolled around.

I like flowers and bumblebees, though. Anywhere!

Eventually, we called it a day and drove to Misten pier, where we just missed the ferry. But there are definitely worse places to hang around, waiting for a ferry. Plus, I would absolutely celebrate our nice hike with a beer or two, once back at our tent at Geitvågen

Goodbye to Kjerringøy. This time…

Trip statistics: 5,4km, 770 vertical meters, 2h:58m
Pictures (Canon EOS RP/Iphone 13 Pro Max) from the hike:

Leave a Reply